What could be simpler than a cucumber? Maybe a couple of radishes, well, or zucchini. It seems to be an elementary cultivated plant, but there are still problems with it from time to time. I would have thought that it was because of my crooked hands, and I would not even doubt it if it were not for the regular comments in which my favorite subscribers share their difficulties.
What’s easier than a cucumber? Maybe a few radishes, or zucchini.
Fortunately, many people talk about how to avoid these difficulties, so I have collected useful tips here, both mine and yours. I sincerely hope that they will help someone in the new season.
The most frustrating thing is that the mistakes we make often turn out to be so simple and obvious that you just wonder how it was possible to be so stupid.
Let’s get down to business!
1. Cucumbers need sufficiently warmed soil for germination, rooting and development
Yes, in recent years we have had so many hybrids that can grow and bear fruit in difficult conditions that it seems that very soon we will be harvesting greens in the winter snowdrifts. But we must not forget that this is a heat-loving plant, so until scientists make an epochal breakthrough, we must take this feature into account.
What does this mean?
That you can plant cucumbers only in well-warmed soil. Its temperature should be at least +15 degrees. It is the soil, not the surrounding air. The air itself will be even warmer. At a very great depth, the temperature does not need to be measured, 5-7 centimeters is enough.
The same rule applies not only to sowing seeds, but also to planting seedlings: the seeds can lie in the ground for at least some time until conditions become favorable, but the seedlings risk dying. The fact is that if the soil temperature is below +12 degrees, the root system stops developing. For young plants after transplanting, this is fatal.
I found an interesting tip. If you do not want or do not have the opportunity to measure the temperature of the soil (and this must be done not once, but for at least five days – and if the temperature is stable above +15, you can plant), you can focus on the flowering of apple trees. If flowers have bloomed on the trees, you should definitely stop and admire them, and then start repotting or sowing cucumbers. But do not forget about shelters when planting in open ground!
The fact is that at the time of the beginning of flowering of apple trees, the soil temperature at a depth of half a meter is 10 degrees, which means that closer to the surface the cherished +15 is guaranteed to eat.
2. Seedlings should not be buried when repotting
Surely many have experienced such a temptation. The fact is that in cucumber seedlings the distance between the place where the root begins and the first leaves is very large. And this is if it has developed normally. In excessively elongated plants, it is even more serious, so you just stretch your hands to bury it a little in the ground.
You shouldn’t do that!
After transplanting, the seedlings should be buried in the same way as when growing in containers. If you overdo it, the roots will be too deep in the soil, where they will lack oxygen, and they risk dying. In addition, cucumbers are at risk of developing stem or root rot, or even all of the above.
After repotting, the seedlings should be buried in the same way as when grown in containers.
3. Do not use vegetable compost on cucumber beds
This is advice that I often come across, which is why I put it on my discussion list. From my point of view, it is very contradictory. This advice is explained by the fact that when using compost there is a high risk of developing fungal diseases.
Advice is also given to those who still add compost to cucumber beds. In this case, when planting, the following product should be added to each hole. In a bucket of water, take 2 tablespoons of mullein in the form of gruel, a tablespoon of urea and half a teaspoon of copper sulfate. For each hole, one liter of such a solution must be allocated. If someone has tried it, share your experience!
On my own behalf, I would like to add that we grow cucumbers directly on compost heaps, and nothing bad happens except good. I tried it personally – they grow no worse than zucchini.
4. Do not solve
In principle, this advice makes sense, because cucumbers have a shallow root system, that is, they are located close to the surface of the soil. When loosening, there is a high probability of damaging the roots, and if you are very zealous, then very seriously.
But for me there are some “buts” here. For example, you can easily loosen the soil between young bushes, whose roots have not yet grown, but only between them, not near the base of the stems. And adult bushes, which also still creep on the ground, will not be able to flutter like that, with all your desire.
Another point is that the soil clumps and cucumbers need a light one that allows oxygen access to the roots. Mulching can help here.
There is another great way – it allows you to avoid loosening, but at the same time achieve the desired effect. We take a fork and pierce the ground. Only four or five per square meter are enough.
5. Do not water with cold water!
Everyone probably knows this, but it will not be superfluous to repeat. Ideally, the water temperature should be +25-28 degrees. You can get one if you collect it in barrels and leave it in the sun.
Why do you need warm water? When watering in warm weather, the excess evaporates quite quickly and the roots absorb moisture effectively. When the weather is cold, watering should be limited, as the roots function poorly and a lot of water is left, which leads to the development of root rot and fungi.
When watered in warm weather, the excess evaporates quite quickly and the roots absorb moisture effectively.
I came across the opinion that there is no way to cope with the rain, and the water falls to the ground without warming up much. What can I say? Nature itself adjusts our care, but this does not mean that you can pour ice water under the cucumbers. Remember that these plants come from the tropics and subtropics? So we must take into account their characteristics. Why deprive yourself of a harvest, because cucumbers can easily shed their buds from cold water?
Well, if we are talking about growing plants in greenhouses, then the rain does not interfere in any way. By the way, if you keep a barrel of water for irrigation in a greenhouse, then even at night the water practically does not cool down.
What do you think of these tips? Share your experiences in the comments!
